Home Propagation

With the price of everything skyrocketing, I feel it is important to take some time to talk about plant propagation. Whether you are wanting to save money on plants for your home landscape, or just want to share with neighbors and friends, creating new plants is fun and an important skill to develop.

Your first mission is to determine which plants you want to produce... this will inform the method you use. Every species has unique requirements for both seed and cutting propagation, so I urge you to do some research before you take off. Or if you are like me, just jump right in and experiment... just keep in mind that there will be many failures.

For seed propagation, I urge you to start with some really easy species. Many seeds, including quite a few natives, require a lot of patience and very specific requirements. I tend to avoid those; however, there are a ton of species that are almost impossible to screw up!

For instance, consider Zinnias. Zinnias, especially the large old-fashioned types, can be grown via direct seeding. "Direct seeding" refers to planting the seed directly into the ground, bypassing the whole container stage. This method works with a whole host of plants like poppies, cornflower, Mexican sunflower, larkspur... the list goes on and on, but the general rule is that if a plant has a root system that doesn't like to be disturbed, it is best to directly seed it into the garden. Just scratch the seeds into a patch of bare earth. You will invariably expose weed seeds too, so just be prepared to do a good bit of weeding along the way. When they germinate it might be good to thin them out leaving the best most vigorous individuals.

For certain plants, usually ones with larger seeds, like moonflower (Ipomoea alba), buckeyes, Ginkgos, Magnolia, and Trillium, I prefer sowing in small containers or seed troughs. Plants I'd consider for this method are, in general, slower-growing and represent a larger investment. Planting in containers affords you more control. You can more easily manage water, soil, and fertilizer. Depending on the species and the rate of growth, when the seedlings develop their first true leaves (not the seed cotyledons), I usually "bump" them up into slightly larger containers, or plant them directly into the garden. Once planted, you simply water them as you would any new plantings.

As much as I love growing plants from seed, my preferred method of propagation is via rooting. It is just so satisfying to take a piece of plant and clone it just by sticking a stem in a little dirt and just letting "it be". It really is simple, yet this form of propagation represents certain wisdom that has been largely forgotten in recent generations. My hope and part of my life's mission is to revive old techniques and infect others with a passion for preserving plant diversity. And becoming an experienced plant propagator is essential for this task.

My go-to method for rooting most plants was introduced to me by South Carolina native azalea guru Mike Creel. The "Creel Method" has opened up a whole new world of possibilities for me. It has allowed me to root plants I'd have previously considered "unrootable". Purchase some large (2 gal.) ziplock bags. Scrounge up some small containers, I prefer the little mini vegetable 6-packs (not the standard size), then fill them with well-draining potting soil, thoroughly soak, then stick the cuttings and place the whole container in the sealed bags. I like to put my bags under shrubs, or just some place without direct sun and secure my bags with rocks or bricks. If the spot is too shady, the cuttings will rot. Once sealed, let the plants be... you shouldn't need to water them until they are rooted and start growing which may take anywhere from 2 weeks to over a month depending on the species.

Right now is an excellent time to root salvias, gardenias, and tea olives (among many others). Ideally, you want the stems to be in that "in-between" phase. Not the newest growth but not the old and woody growth. It is best to do this in the morning or late evening when the sun isn't so harsh. I like to make my cuttings from 4 to six inches in length. I then cut off the lower leaves and keep two leaves toward the tip (or growing end). Always root plants with the growing end (or terminal bud) up. Most propagators use rooting hormone, but I find that it is unnecessary for most species. However, if I was rooting native azaleas, I would use hormone.

In conclusion, I'd like to summarize with a few key considerations when approaching any kind of propagation. First off, you always want to keep the soil moist, but never soaking wet. Never use real soil, always use a sterile potting mix, especially one with high perlite and/or bark content to ensure rapid drainage. I've killed so many young plants by keeping them too wet. Conversely, they can never be allowed to completely dry out. You should also protect your seedlings from varments! This includes mice, rabbits, and most importantly, slugs! Slugs can completely decimate small plants. I like to use slug bait or set out beer traps. I find that my slugs prefer Miller Lite, but your slugs may have a more refined palate. You might also want to install a water feature in your yard to encourage toads and frogs. A healthy amphibian population will greatly reduce slug infestations.

Now go forth and propagate! You will be so thrilled when you tug on a cutting and find that it has rooted!